Porto Corallo

4th of June 2019.

After a pleasant night at anchor, in this beautiful Cala south of Arbatax, we delighted in breakfast on deck whilst admiring the glorious view.

We weighed anchor at 1047 and headed south to Porto Corallo, some 30nms south. This was one of the few trips that we used the iron maiden more than the sails. There was simply not enough wind. It was strange to have the the engine on for any length of time and was quite irritating compared to the calmness of the wind in the sails and splashing seas. Someone once said that the best sound in the world is when the engine is turned of on a sailboat.

We arrived in Corallo at 1630, and yes we did sail a little. We had been to Corallo two years ago and not much had changed apart the offices had moved from a make shift shack to more up market accommodation. That and the prices had increased. Last time we paid €23 and this time €53. Apart from that all the same. Nothing to do here apart from rest up on a southward journey and visit the solo Pizzeria/Restaurant across the road from the marina. A port of refuge in bad conditions, or if anchoring isn’t achievable, because of swell on this open coats.

View of marina from the new offices
New offices and NEW PRICES
Ristorante Pizzeria S’Allegusta e Sa Cassola

The final leg

6th of June 2019

We awoke in our beautiful anchorage where we spent a quite and peaceful night. Yachts were still arriving as we pondered our day. We were going to go into Villasimius marina and explore the town and sights and viewpoints, but decided against it due to Ed’s back, best not risk it. So we prepared Arctura for the final 20 nm leg back to Cagliari.

We weighed anchor at 1150 and as usual set sails immediately. The wind was brisk and steady, between 15 and 17kts, with no gust. We sailed southward so we could put a tach in and make course for Cagliari. The sail was fantastic, pulling between 7 and 7.5kts consistently. Within no time we were at St Elmo marina entrance and mooring up.

And so the end of a months sailing, with wonderful experiences and I for one have learnt a great deal and added it to my knowledge base.

We traveled 880nm. 671 under sail and 209 under engine. We have visited wonderful sights such as Piza, endured high wind and 3mtr waves, river mooring, anchorages, islands and meeting new friends and experiencing new towns and cities and greater foods. It’s a hard life, but someone has to do it. UNTIL THE NEXT ADVENTURE.

Our Journey

Santa Maria Navarrese revisited

Our next destination was set to be Santa Maria Navarrese and we weighed anchor at 1041 and set a southerly course in reasonable winds and, as usual on this trip, we managed to sail all the way to the entrance of our destination.


We were welcomed by to marina staff members, who took our lines, and were extremely friendly, as were the staff in the office. €50 per night and a discount for Cruising Association Members of 10%.

We were here two years ago, and neither Ed nor I can remember much about it. Looking at our logs of two years ago, we reminded ourselves that we arrived here quite late in the evening and left early the next day. So that’s probably why we don’t remember much about this town and not for the fact that we overindulged. Phew a relief.

We settled into our new home, and then took a walk into town, up a slight incline and a distance of a kilometre. We never ventured this far on our last visit. The town is delightful. Full of hotels, restaurants, shops and delightful properties. We ventured further up the hill, past ever more beautiful houses, overlooking the marina and bay. We were tempted to eat out, but Ed and I made a pact to eat on board and so we descended back to the marina and to Arctura. Our neighbours, were a delightful Swiss family, who invited us for a drink on their, slightly smaller Dufour, and we struck up a good rapour. back to Arctura, and down to the special business of watching Liverpool beat Tottenham, in the UEFA league final 2-0, Alex will be happy as his team became the champions.

Our marina from our walk along the coastal road

The next day we decided to get to tourist boats and visit the caves, some 12 miles north the the marina. At €46, plus the additional €8 to enter the caves, it seemed quite expensive, but we decided to go for it. We just about managed to catch the 0930 boat, but were a little rushed and forgot a few things, such as Edwards iPhone, swimming trunks and towels. Anyway, we made our way out of the marina and along the coast, which we had said the previous day, but this time a lot closer, at times literally 4 metres from the steep cliff face. I think the biggest danger being so close is falling rocks rather than depth.

The coast is stunning, the cliffs simply rise virtically out of the sea. Occasionally, there are incredible beaches along the 12 miles of coast the we visited. You have the option of stopping at beaches or going to caves, we choose the caves. There is however a compulsory beach stop for lunch, with a pleasant restaurant located some 300 metres from the shore. We stopped here and had a couple of basic pasta dishes at reasonable prices.

Ristorante Sucoile – lunch time stop on our boat trip

We visited two caves, Grotta del Fico and Grotte del Beau Marino. Both are amazing and worth the visit. The cost of entry was €8 and €10 respectively.

Grotto Del Fico

The boat tour, with stops, lasts the whole day and covers approximately 15 miles. We left at 0930 and didn’t get back until 1800. We’ll worth the money and in my opinion should not be missed.

We invited our Swiss friends for a drink at the marina bar and exchanged sailing stories. A really pleasant family and hopefully we’ll stay in touch and may meet again.

Roman with his wife Rachel and children Maurice and Lewis

This is an amazing quite and yet very sociable town, with many bars, restaurants and activities, one of which includes diving, which is probably fabulous in the crystal clear turquoise waters in this region.

The next day we walked into town to pick up some basic food supplies and walked down towards the beach and back to the marina. The beach looks fantastic, clean and with inviting waters. I dare say this town is awfully busy in the height of summer.

We slipped lines at noon and engined up the coast again and onto the anchorage of Cala Goloritze, which we had passed by ferry the prior day. Lovely scenery, and we were going to stay overnight, but it was rather folly, with passing pleasure boats and northerly swell. So we moved onto an anchorage south of Arbatax, Cala Frailis.

At anchor at Cala Goloritze

Anchoring at Frailis

We decided not to stay in Goloritze, as there was to much swell and it became very rolly. So we weighed anchor and headed to a small anchorage, just south of Arbatax, called Frailis. We anchored in 3.5 metres and about 100 metres of the beach. A very pleasant anchorage and in June was quite of noise from the beach., but reports say it becomes quite noisy in July and August. there were 4 other yachts anchored in this Cala and we had a wonderfully peaceful and still night.

Another highly recommended anchorage.

D Day anchorage

5th June 2019

Slipping lines at 1056, we raised sails whilst still in the marina and headed out of Porto Corallo and into open water. Our planned destination is Villasimius. We managed to sail until 1420, when the wind dropped and on went the engine. As we approached the south eastern tip of Sardinia, “Capo Carbonara”, the wind pipped up and we managed to sail the last 2nms to an anchorage in ” Spiaggia di Campulongu”, which is just a stones throw from Marina Di Villasimius.

The anchorage seemed very settled and protected from the south easterly swell and there were at least 8 yachts already at anchor. So we dropped the hook in 8 mtrs and decided to see how Arctura settled. All seemed fine, and calm, and as we sat on deck more and more yachts arrived.

We watched as they anchored and I made a note of all the different nationalities we had in our bay. Two Canadian, several English, Australian, Dutch, French, Swedish and even a RAF ensign, were all anchored in our Cala. Quite appropriate for the 75th anniversary of the D Day landings, and NOT a German in sight.

Sunset and Sun rays to commemorate D-Day at our international anchorage

As I sat on deck watching our D-Day contingent, I thought of my Grandfather, “Maximilian Szafranski”, who served in the Polish Allied Forces, under General Anders, in the Second World War. I now regret, not asking more question of him when he was alive.

This anchorage is quite a find, settled peaceful and quite. Even overnight and next morning, when the wind turned to a westerly at 15 kts, it wasn’t to lumpy and certainly not rolly.

Sunrise in Liberotto

My son Alex, woke me up with a ping of my phone and a text at 0556. Although at first, a little annoyed at being woken up, I was please to hear from him and then doubly please when I realised that i would catch the sunrise, which I adore and wanted to get up to see anyway. He must be telepathic. Anyway, I went on deck and witnessed the incredible sunrise, which I was able to share whilst video/talking to Alex on Facetime. It’s kids day in Poland today and he texted me to remind me of that.

Wonderful Sunrise in Liberotto

Well, back to the business of sailing. Although the wind had dropped by 2100, the previous night, a light swell came into the bay. Arctura rolled gently as we were beam on. Enough to make it mildly uncomfortable, but by 0100 in the morning, it seemed to settle a little, as the wind backed from North to Northwest, which helped a little. The joys of anchoring. If we had a kedge anchor, it would have come in handy, keeping our bow into the swell and making it more comfortable in this gentle swell. I for one would rather the mild discomfort and be rewarded with the exquisite tranquility of the new day and new beginning, in a beautiful place and with a glorious gift from the heavens of the sun rising and bringing life to a new day.

Day 2 at Anchor at Salinedda

When Ed eventually got up we had our breakfast and then tried a new lifting technique for the tender. We decided to lift her, complete with engine attached, from the fore deck using the geneka halyard and electric winch. She balanced well and was in the water in no time. So a new technique, which I’m sure Ed and Elaine can adopt when sailing together. We also checked out the bow thruster, as Ed seemed to think it was lacking in power. We did this by lowering the Go Pro, attached to a boat hook,

This confirmed that there was no damaged. If anything, it may be weakened batteries, as they are 10 years old and probably need replacing.

Jobs done, we took a ride to the beach in the tender. The beach is sandy and inviting, with crystal clear sea waters. There is some dry foliage, but I believe this gets cleared up before the start of every season, as I saw small bulldozers, pushing the sand and foliage into the sea. The walk up the hill proved uneventful, but there is obviously a holiday resort as the landscape is peppered with quite attractive villas for rental.

Our plan was to head south, but being men of Lesiure , or as our friend Massimo calls us ” NO WHERE MEN”, we decided to visit the island of “Tavolara”, some 6 nm away.

Tavoilara island is 5km long and 1km wide. In the 19th and 20th centuries, a tiny kingdom was set up on the island by the Bertoleoni family as the Kingdom of Tavolara, sanctioned by Charles Albert, King of Sardinia.

The flag of Tavolara: On a white field, a red shield with a distinctive golden six-pointed star, surmounted by a golden Tavolara crown.

The Bertoleonis (royal family of Tavolara)
That’s no our yacht ? yet !!!!!!

Arctura, somewhere, anchored in Tavolara
View of Tavolara from Arctura at anchor

Nothing much of this island apart from a couple of restaurants, one of which is owned by a chap named Tonino Bertoleoni, who is apparently the current claimant to the island. There are, I’m informed guided tours up to the top, but I saw no evidence of that when visiting.

The view of Tavolara on the morning of the 31st May, as seen from our anchorage of Salinedda

Discovering ever new anchorages

Well the time has come to leave our home of two days and continue our sail south.

Our destination is Cala Liberotto, some 26 nms south, and the only one with protection from northerly wind in a radius of 26 nms. If it doesn’t work out, we would have an additional 24 nms to go and find refuge in Santa Maria Navaresse, but I’m continually optimistic that all will be well.

We decided to sail off our anchorage, which went fine and without event, and set a course south. A cracking sail, with ever increasing winds. As we approached our destination we had winds in excess of 18 kts and probably .5 metre waves, and wondered what the anchorage had in store. Turning into the bay, the waters were a brilliant turquoise and no white horses and very minimal swell. All good so far. turning into wind we put our main away and edged into 4 metres of water, where we dropped our hook. No real need for reverse as the 15kt wind pushed us back sufficiently for the anchor to set. In fact we were probably reversing at 1kts when the anchor dug in and put a firm stop to our backwards movement. A little reverse for safety sake and we were in. Looking at the charts we may well be in Cala Ginepro rather than Liberotto. Will ask the locals when we go ashore.

Cala Liberto/ Ginepro

Again, another fantastic anchorage and hopefully with the wind forecast to drop, it’ll be even more comfortable in a few hours.

At Anchor

After provisioning we decided to have a quick pizza before our planned departure of 1500. Things in Italy never go to plan and we had to wait another hour, before we finally got our €200 deposit back. The yacht club we stayed in “Circola Nautico Olbia”, is a fantastic place to moor up in Olbia. Very welcoming staff, great club house and all for €35 per night and right in the centre of town.

So we slipped lines at 1604 and immediately put sails up and started sailing though the main channel, on genoa alone, and pulling 6 kts. This area is now so familiar to us, it’s almost like home ground.

The wind was with us all the way, to our intended anchorage location of “Salinedda” just on the south eastern tip of “Capo Coda Cavallo”. We anchored 150 metres off the beach, in 4.5 metres of water and into sand. The wind was a light westerly and the sea state was so calm, that you could have mistaken it for a lake. Settling down to a home made spag bols, which I have prepared earlier, with the added delight of home made garlic bread, we laid the table on deck and enjoyed the food and the tranquil surroundings, beautiful clear skies and amazing sunset. Not a yacht in our bay, just a few in the next bay along. As the stars and planets appeared, we contemplated our new home and settled in for the night.

Me enjoying a San Peligrino

Ed contemplating the meal


We couldn’t have had a more peaceful night, not a single movement, I occasionally stirred and just not believing, that I was actually at anchor.

As if that wasn’t enough, I was rewarded with the most beautiful sunrise over still waters, with only the sound of birds, fish jumping and lightly splashing waves on the shore, not 150 metres away. What a wonderful way to start the day and it’s not even 0600.


Ile Cavallo Again

The usual pre departure duties. Ed washed down Arctura, whilst I went shopping for provisions. The local Spar had everything we needed and a small diversion to the local Boulangerie and Patiserie, completed the shop with fresh baguette, croissants and cakes.

We slipped lines at 1252, in glorious sunshine and headed to Cavallo, on a parallel course to the Corsican coast, admiring the wonderful scenery of chalk cliff shaped and sculptured by the sea and winds.

Arctura, leaving BoniFacio

Chapeau de Napoleon

Chapeau de Napoleon, with BoniFacio Citadel in the background

The Citadel of BoniFacio

The cliffs of BoniFacio and Capo Pertusato, and Phare de Pertusato.

We arrived at Cavello after passing Lavezzi and tacking northwards. Our second visit to this wonderful island was better than the first. Beautiful sunshine filtered down through the still waters, making them turquoise and throwing defracted sun rays onto the sandy bottom, some 4 metres below the surface.

We readied the tender and headed for the beach. According to some reports, you can’t go beyond the wooden fence, but we saw no signs that this was forbidden. In fact, yards from the beach, there a concreted road that seems to go the whole length of the island. We turned left and followed the road for about half a mile, passing what appeared to be hotel staff accommodation, before eventually coming across the beautiful hotel and spa, “Des Pecheurs”. A beautiful setting, with a restaurant facing the sea and with its own private beach, with a terrace to match. Had a look at the menu and the dishes on offer, started from around €30 for basic pasta, we weren’t tempted and after a brief walk around the restaurant and bar area, we returned to the beach. It was so warm in the sunshine and after testing the water,I decided to go for a swim in the crystal clear waters of the bay.

The waters were as warm as any indoor swimming back home in Anglettere. I was tempted to swim all the way back to Arctura, but was persuded to drive the tender home, to Arctura.

Back on board, for a pleasant supper of sausage, potatoes and salad accompanied by a fine Muscadet sur Lie.