Another day another anchorage

So the first jobs of then day was coffee, breakfast followed quickly by kedge anchor recovery. This was carried out by deploying the tender, with Massimo on board, and literally pulling the anchor out, which would have been o.k. If it wasn’t lodge under the only rock in the vicinity. Still job done and an exhausted, but jubilant Massimo returns to Arya.

So we weighed anchor at 1020 and headed north, this time under engine, as promised wind did not show. about an hour into the trip, Massimo’s eye caught sight of a beach and so after a brief consultation with the crew and also because there was no wind we all decided to head for it and anchor.

We arrived into even more beautiful turquoise waters and anchored in 4 metres and .2 nms off shore. There was no delay, we all immediately dived into the crystal clear waters and swam for about 40 minutes before having the idea to swim the 300 metres to the beach. So Massimo, Alex and myself, headed for the beach and we all arrived safely. Massimo commented

How brave Alex was and after a brief rest we headed back to Arya, which seemed longer than coming to the beach, I think thats always the case, plus we were swimming against a light current and wind. No sooner were we back on Arya, we all decided to head back for the beach, this time with Arba and also to provision with a few things we had forgotten to buy. So I was designated as being in charge of the tender and Arba, whilst Massimo, Marta and Alex swan, but this time with flippers, which Alex really enjoyed. He commented how much easier it was and he is really a sea boy. This is probably due to all the hard work, and pleasure, that i put in, from when he was 2 months old and we went swimming everyday, until he was forcibly removed to Poland, where he does no swimming what so ever?.

After provisioniong and an ice cream on shore, we headed back. I rowed back due to outboard not starting, whislt the others swam. So Alex covered 1.2 kms by swim power?.

Back on board and yet another sunset, this time with ever more spectacular views of the high mountains in land, dawned with exceptional colours. In my opion, being here is better than the Madalena’s. Great scenary with high backdrops as opposed to low lying islands. That said, you must have very settled weather to anchor here, but thats also true of some parts of Madelena.

Eveving completed with another fine pasta dish and beddy byes. we will sleep like lords after a feast.

Northward bound

I managed to get up for the sunrise which although was at 0600 it only appeared over the terrain of Carbonara Bay at 0614 and was caught on camera.

Sunrise at Carbonara Bay

After a breakfast on honey dew melon,bananas, fresh bread and jam we all dived into the crystal clear waters for a swim and splashing fun. Alex was like a fish in water and we couldn’t get him out, he found it that enjoyable, jumping in one time after another and exploring the sea bed and sea life through his goggles.

Fun at anchor at Carbonara Bay

At 1100 we eventually set sail in a brisk wind of 14 kts and set sails and sailed out of the bay. Rounding Capo Carbonara, we set a northerly course with the wind almost behind us, but allowing us to sail almost all the way, to our unknown destination, which proved to be Cala Murtas. I was here two year ago, with Edward and Paul, when we were shooed away by a military vessel performing parachute aerial drops of either equipment or test weaponry. I would have never have thought then, that I would visit this again, let alone anchor in this open bay. That said, it is exactly what we have done and also set a ketch anchor, that set our bow into the swell and made for an extremely comfortable nigh, with not the slightest movement. Recovery, will prove interesting.

More swimming, with almost 2 hours in the sea and also Alex, Arba and me, venturing to the beach on the tender and having fun the the water playing water polo. Eventually we headed back for Arya, another swim and then relaxing before a wonderful Pasta Bolognese, of which Alex had three portions.

And so the end of another day at sea, so far, marina costs have been zero and our only expenses are food and a tiny bit of fuel.

Marta, Massimo and Alex under sail
Sunset with Marta, Massimo, Alex and of course Arba

Out of Port and onto anchor

The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry. Well this was certainly our case. We were meant to leave at 1700, but due to the usual unforeseen circumstances and last minute glitches we finally slipped lines at 1919. Still we have departed upon our voyage of discovery. Our objective is to get as far north as possible, perhaps Bonifacio, and then wend our way back to Cagliari.

Setting sail out of the intense heat of the marina, 36 degrees, we headed out in to a cooler environment of open water, with a delightful and gentle sea breeze. This was enough to allow us to sail for the first 10 nm, at which time the wind dropped to below 3 knts and we motored the remainder.

Father and son – at the exit of Cagliari harbour

The conditions on route were perfect, and pulling 4 kts over the calmest of sea was beauty in the making. Alex was in heaven and in his new found element.

Watching the sunset over Caglairi and the western hills of Sardinia was like a dream unfolding. Alex commented how quickly the sun disappeared, and its true, one doesn’t realise how quickly our little earth is moving, until you have a reference point, such as the sun on the horizon.

Alex and sun set at 2047
Sunset one minute later

Night fell and we were rewarded with another miracle of the stars in the heavens. Thousands upon thousands of visible stars appeared and the Milky Way was clearly visible, together with Jupiter and Saturn. We all laid on the fore deck, admiring this free show and spectacle and I for one wondered upon its creation. To top it all we saw a few shooting stars upon the backdrop of the heavens.

You could see the delight in Alex’s eyes as he too pondered these wonders and new experiences filling his mind, hopefully forever. He was in awe and said that this was the best experience ever and would want to stay on yachts and sail the seas. By the way, his now preferred Country has changed for England to Italy.

Before Alex and Marta retired we were serverd a wonderful dinner, of tomatoes spaghetti, under the carpet of the stars, by Massimo. And as a finali, I showed Alex the illuminations of plankton and phosphorescent sea life, creating its own lit Universe, in the sea below.

So with half the crew below and asleep, Massimo and I pressed on for the last hour to anchor in the beautiful bay of Carbonarra, minding out for the other 20 or so yachts that were to be our neighbours for the night. Finally dropping the hook at 0021, we put Arya to rest and then ourselves. An Amazing first day, with a Father proudly looking at his son and the joy and happiness in Alex’s eyes and soul.

Lazy Dayz

There is something special about sleeping on a yacht, even in a marina. Both Alex and I slept soundly and woke up to glorious sunshine and totally relaxed.

Lazy days

A Lazy start and by the time we fully awoke it was just about time for lunch. We headed for our usual Aquila restaurant and had a relaxing 2 hour lunch, sitting outside, in a light breeze, but with temperatures hitting 34 degrees.

Lunch at Aquila

A quick siesta and then Michal offered to drive us to Poetto beach. Michal, is a Polish chap who has his power boat in the same marina, Sant Elmo. A lovely chap, married to a French Canadian, and inviting in Canada. He has interesting stories, about escapes from Poland in the 50’s / 60’s. Anyway more on that later.

Another fun swim on the beach and then bussing it back to Sant Elmo.

Poetto Beach

Time to do some work,. We had to fill the diesel tanks and put up the repaired genoa.

Massimo did the rabbit run of filling portable diesel containers from the local car petrol station and driving them back to the marina and trolleyed onto Aria. It seem crazy to do this, but the price on the local fuel pontoon is €2.00 per ltr and the fuel from the petrol station is €1.50. So filling up 200 ltrs this way saves us €100. So worth the effort and in reality, by the time you get the yacht ready for the trip to the local fuel pontoon and get there, fuel and come back, takes an hour also.

We then headed to the Rari Nantes swimming pool restaurant and treated Massimo and Marta to a meal of Steaks and pizza, Alex had a steak off coarse, as did Massimo.

Rari Nantes
Rari Nantes with the Massimo’s

Sardinia here we come

So, another early morning start, but today was exceptionally early, with the Taxi from “Road Runners”, turning up nearly an hour early at 0424. Oh well he had to wait whilst Alex got up.

So off to Gatwick South Terminal and onto B.A. electronic check in, which went so smoothly and without event. Past security and headed for a wonderful breakfast at “Wondertree”. Fantastic scrambled eggs with smoked salmon for me and beans on toast for Alex.

Alex, none to happy with the early morning start

We arrived in Cagliari airport bang on time and after switch passing through passport control and getting our bag, we walked out into the airport arrivals to the warmest of greetings from Marta and Arba. Alex took to them both immediately and after a short drive, we were on our new home of the yacht Aria.

Marta and Arba had to leave us, as Marta had some work to do. So Alex and I almost immediately went to the Aquila club/restaurant, for a great horse steak for Alex and the lunch menu for me. A starter, two mains, two desert, 1 litre of sparkling water and a soft drink all for €23.50

Sustenance after the long journey

Sorry uncle Ed, I sank your yacht, thanks for the invite…

It’s a hard life, but someone has to do it

After lunch we went back to Aria for a siesta, only being awoken by a visit from Massimo and then to the bar for some light refreshing drinks.

Alex and I then decided to take the bus (PF or PQ ) to Poetto beach. I bus can almost immediately and after 15 minutes we were on the sandy beach of Poetto and in the clear and warm waters. Medium sized rollers made a play in these fantastic water even more special and Alex was in his element and a million miles away from Polakoland. The bus ride back was just as easy and we returned just in time to have a shower in the marina facilities, thus not brining collected sand onto yacht, and for the arrival of Massimo and a welcome to his and Marta’s home and a fine meal of Spaghetti Bolognese. Massimo went out of his way to make this especially for AlexThe evening ended with the usual visit to the ice cream parlour and great view from the summit square overlooking Cagliari. A great first day and one that Alex and I will remember always….

Together, with the best of friends. A special meal of spaghetti Bolognese, made with love for Alex

The final leg

6th of June 2019

We awoke in our beautiful anchorage where we spent a quite and peaceful night. Yachts were still arriving as we pondered our day. We were going to go into Villasimius marina and explore the town and sights and viewpoints, but decided against it due to Ed’s back, best not risk it. So we prepared Arctura for the final 20 nm leg back to Cagliari.

We weighed anchor at 1150 and as usual set sails immediately. The wind was brisk and steady, between 15 and 17kts, with no gust. We sailed southward so we could put a tach in and make course for Cagliari. The sail was fantastic, pulling between 7 and 7.5kts consistently. Within no time we were at St Elmo marina entrance and mooring up.

And so the end of a months sailing, with wonderful experiences and I for one have learnt a great deal and added it to my knowledge base.

We traveled 880nm. 671 under sail and 209 under engine. We have visited wonderful sights such as Piza, endured high wind and 3mtr waves, river mooring, anchorages, islands and meeting new friends and experiencing new towns and cities and greater foods. It’s a hard life, but someone has to do it. UNTIL THE NEXT ADVENTURE.

Our Journey

Porto Corallo

4th of June 2019.

After a pleasant night at anchor, in this beautiful Cala south of Arbatax, we delighted in breakfast on deck whilst admiring the glorious view.

We weighed anchor at 1047 and headed south to Porto Corallo, some 30nms south. This was one of the few trips that we used the iron maiden more than the sails. There was simply not enough wind. It was strange to have the the engine on for any length of time and was quite irritating compared to the calmness of the wind in the sails and splashing seas. Someone once said that the best sound in the world is when the engine is turned of on a sailboat.

We arrived in Corallo at 1630, and yes we did sail a little. We had been to Corallo two years ago and not much had changed apart the offices had moved from a make shift shack to more up market accommodation. That and the prices had increased. Last time we paid €23 and this time €53. Apart from that all the same. Nothing to do here apart from rest up on a southward journey and visit the solo Pizzeria/Restaurant across the road from the marina. A port of refuge in bad conditions, or if anchoring isn’t achievable, because of swell on this open coats.

View of marina from the new offices
New offices and NEW PRICES
Ristorante Pizzeria S’Allegusta e Sa Cassola

Santa Maria Navarrese revisited

Our next destination was set to be Santa Maria Navarrese and we weighed anchor at 1041 and set a southerly course in reasonable winds and, as usual on this trip, we managed to sail all the way to the entrance of our destination.


We were welcomed by to marina staff members, who took our lines, and were extremely friendly, as were the staff in the office. €50 per night and a discount for Cruising Association Members of 10%.

We were here two years ago, and neither Ed nor I can remember much about it. Looking at our logs of two years ago, we reminded ourselves that we arrived here quite late in the evening and left early the next day. So that’s probably why we don’t remember much about this town and not for the fact that we overindulged. Phew a relief.

We settled into our new home, and then took a walk into town, up a slight incline and a distance of a kilometre. We never ventured this far on our last visit. The town is delightful. Full of hotels, restaurants, shops and delightful properties. We ventured further up the hill, past ever more beautiful houses, overlooking the marina and bay. We were tempted to eat out, but Ed and I made a pact to eat on board and so we descended back to the marina and to Arctura. Our neighbours, were a delightful Swiss family, who invited us for a drink on their, slightly smaller Dufour, and we struck up a good rapour. back to Arctura, and down to the special business of watching Liverpool beat Tottenham, in the UEFA league final 2-0, Alex will be happy as his team became the champions.

Our marina from our walk along the coastal road

The next day we decided to get to tourist boats and visit the caves, some 12 miles north the the marina. At €46, plus the additional €8 to enter the caves, it seemed quite expensive, but we decided to go for it. We just about managed to catch the 0930 boat, but were a little rushed and forgot a few things, such as Edwards iPhone, swimming trunks and towels. Anyway, we made our way out of the marina and along the coast, which we had said the previous day, but this time a lot closer, at times literally 4 metres from the steep cliff face. I think the biggest danger being so close is falling rocks rather than depth.

The coast is stunning, the cliffs simply rise virtically out of the sea. Occasionally, there are incredible beaches along the 12 miles of coast the we visited. You have the option of stopping at beaches or going to caves, we choose the caves. There is however a compulsory beach stop for lunch, with a pleasant restaurant located some 300 metres from the shore. We stopped here and had a couple of basic pasta dishes at reasonable prices.

Ristorante Sucoile – lunch time stop on our boat trip

We visited two caves, Grotta del Fico and Grotte del Beau Marino. Both are amazing and worth the visit. The cost of entry was €8 and €10 respectively.

Grotto Del Fico

The boat tour, with stops, lasts the whole day and covers approximately 15 miles. We left at 0930 and didn’t get back until 1800. We’ll worth the money and in my opinion should not be missed.

We invited our Swiss friends for a drink at the marina bar and exchanged sailing stories. A really pleasant family and hopefully we’ll stay in touch and may meet again.

Roman with his wife Rachel and children Maurice and Lewis

This is an amazing quite and yet very sociable town, with many bars, restaurants and activities, one of which includes diving, which is probably fabulous in the crystal clear turquoise waters in this region.

The next day we walked into town to pick up some basic food supplies and walked down towards the beach and back to the marina. The beach looks fantastic, clean and with inviting waters. I dare say this town is awfully busy in the height of summer.

We slipped lines at noon and engined up the coast again and onto the anchorage of Cala Goloritze, which we had passed by ferry the prior day. Lovely scenery, and we were going to stay overnight, but it was rather folly, with passing pleasure boats and northerly swell. So we moved onto an anchorage south of Arbatax, Cala Frailis.

At anchor at Cala Goloritze

D Day anchorage

5th June 2019

Slipping lines at 1056, we raised sails whilst still in the marina and headed out of Porto Corallo and into open water. Our planned destination is Villasimius. We managed to sail until 1420, when the wind dropped and on went the engine. As we approached the south eastern tip of Sardinia, “Capo Carbonara”, the wind pipped up and we managed to sail the last 2nms to an anchorage in ” Spiaggia di Campulongu”, which is just a stones throw from Marina Di Villasimius.

The anchorage seemed very settled and protected from the south easterly swell and there were at least 8 yachts already at anchor. So we dropped the hook in 8 mtrs and decided to see how Arctura settled. All seemed fine, and calm, and as we sat on deck more and more yachts arrived.

We watched as they anchored and I made a note of all the different nationalities we had in our bay. Two Canadian, several English, Australian, Dutch, French, Swedish and even a RAF ensign, were all anchored in our Cala. Quite appropriate for the 75th anniversary of the D Day landings, and NOT a German in sight.

Sunset and Sun rays to commemorate D-Day at our international anchorage

As I sat on deck watching our D-Day contingent, I thought of my Grandfather, “Maximilian Szafranski”, who served in the Polish Allied Forces, under General Anders, in the Second World War. I now regret, not asking more question of him when he was alive.

This anchorage is quite a find, settled peaceful and quite. Even overnight and next morning, when the wind turned to a westerly at 15 kts, it wasn’t to lumpy and certainly not rolly.

Anchoring at Frailis

We decided not to stay in Goloritze, as there was to much swell and it became very rolly. So we weighed anchor and headed to a small anchorage, just south of Arbatax, called Frailis. We anchored in 3.5 metres and about 100 metres of the beach. A very pleasant anchorage and in June was quite of noise from the beach., but reports say it becomes quite noisy in July and August. there were 4 other yachts anchored in this Cala and we had a wonderfully peaceful and still night.

Another highly recommended anchorage.